We had a solid 4 hours of effort ahead of us back to the cars, but the respite from the sun was a welcome change of climate for the hike out. Pick up a clear trail and descend 150 ft, turn right, traverse, descend another several hundred feet, finally coming out at the edge of a talus slope. Do pick up blue bags at a ranger station and keep some handy on every climb! The team then hikes south on Lake Ann Trail over Austin Pass (4,700 ft). Join Us on a 4 Day Mt. Day 2 Summit Day We will get your pack to a comfortable weight and have time to answer any questions you may have.Day 1 - Travel to the trailhead, near Artist Point at 4,600, in the heart of the North Cascades. Protect your gear and keep animals wild by urinating on bare rock, far away from camping areas, and by keeping salty gear and other food items out of reach of wildlife (use a bear canister, or hang food from tree limbs or large boulders). Rob taking in the elevation gained so far, looking down at the Lower Curtis glacier. Fisher Chimneys with the more technical SE Ridge finish was a very bold trip for 2 brand new climbers, it took longer than expected. Camped at Ann lake. At the top, we ran into a guided group being short roped up the chimneys. Additional parking can be found across the street in the Park & Ride lot. Beginning at Austin Pass, the Lake Ann Trail enters the Mount Baker Wilderness as it switchbacks down into the headwaters of the Swift Creek Drainage. Each deposit includes a $300.00 nonrefundable registration fee. ), Trailhead parking fees (Northwest Forest Pass), Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of trip deposit), Optional Cancel for Any Reason coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of trip deposit), Small personal first-aid kit with medications and blister kit. We busted out the stoves and had a hot lunch at the lower bivy section while we waited for the occupying party to come down. This is not a blanket requirement for the entire park or for all portions of these zones, and was purposely limited, after two years of internal review and public comment, to areas of high use by both humans and wildlife, where wildlife has become habituated to getting human food, and other methods of food storage were ineffective, improper, or impossible. It had softened significantly, and we had been moving about 10 hours at this point, so I didnt think Joe and Rob wanted to solo downclimb at this point. These trips are low ratio, small group expeditions led by some of the most experienced guides in the business. Read our Four-Legged Stool blog post for tips on finding the right adventure for you. Do ask an experienced ranger how many piles of poop he or she has seen while on patrol, and you will realize that this problem is bigger than you want to think. 1670 S Burlington Blvd Sedro-Woolley, WA 98284, Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott Burlington The Fisher Chimneys is the classic all-around alpine climb in the North Cascades. You will need two (2) breakfasts, enough lunch and snack food for three (3) days, and two (2) dinners. Out of all of the ruggedly beautiful, non-volcanic mountains in the Pacific Northwest, Mt. Three or four 15-minute lunch & snack breaks during the hike to high camp. Although I started out with 4 people, life and work chipped away at each persons schedule so by the time the first weekend in August came around we had not yet gotten to do our practical snow skills. Log in and send us My goal was to be back at high camp by noon, a little over 8 hours later. Day 2: Alpine Breakfast, Lunch & snacks for climb to summit, Dinner Vertical Descent Hiking: 2,000 feet About halfway up, where you make a traverse from the lower to upper chimneys we broke through the cloud cover and were rewarded with beautiful views of Mt. Monday Friday / 9:00 5:00 PT, 3 Day Climb Washington State 9,131 ft. You will need two (2) breakfasts, enough lunch and snack food for three (3) days, and two (2) dinners. To safely enjoy this climb, you must be able to meet these benchmark times while maintaining reserves of strength. A mixed glacier and 4th class rock climb/scramble, a bit more challenging than the Sulphide Glacier route, and joining the Sulphide route on the summit pyramid. Note: CamelBaks and other bladder-style hydration systems may be used in addition to two water bottles, but are not sufficient. Climb 3rd and 4th class alpine rock up the spectacular Fisher Chimneys to the summit of Mount Shuksan. The mountain's name Shuksan is derived from the Lummi word, said to mean "high peak". updates, images, or resources. Heading up the final slope to the start of the chimneys. Ascend/traverse the glacier, working left around crevasses. Despite the fact that Hells Highway was steeper than Winnies slide, the darkness helped mask the sense of exposure so I was able to just keep our party moving up the slope without needing to pull out pickets and do a running belay. The small town of Sedro-Woolley, The Gateway to the North Cascades, is approximately 70 miles and a 1.5-hour drive from Seattle or Bellevue. We recommend Signature Travel Insurance. A mixed glacier and 4th class rock climb/scramble, a bit more challenging than the Sulphide Glacier route, and joining the Sulphide route on the summit pyramid. My Tarptent ProTrail Li has never been that easy to set up but perfectly, but it was great for this trip; light, well ventilated and with a compact footprint. The cloud layer pushing up against the mountain made for a dramatic sunset. Mount Shuksan's Fisher Chimneys is one of the very classic Cascadian alpine routes up the arguably most iconic peak in North Cascades National Park. Little did I know that we would use every second of it. Trail may be snow covered in early season. Shuksan summit pyramid couloir is about 40% snow covered. Schedule: Day 1: Approach, climb the Fisher Chimneys, circumnavigate to the base of the North Face. From June 1 to November 15, allowed hard-sided food canisters are required for camping below the vegetation line in Boston Basin, Eldorado, and Sulphide Glacier cross-country zones. 4 climbers)Length: 3 days + 1/2 day travel and prep Cost: $1767.00 per person - 1 Climber/1 Guide $1167.00 per person - 2 Climbers/1 Guide $1377.00 per person - 3 Climbers/2 Guides $1167.00 per person - 4 Climbers/2 GuidesDates: July 20-23, 2022 August 5-8, 2022, Prep Day - Travel to the Skagit Valley, WA. Shuksan. Day 3 Hike to Trailhead. You or your entire party may have to turn around without reaching the summit. This is our happy place. Fisher Chimneys 3 Day Ascent. Location: Mount ShuksanRatio: 2:1 climber to guide (max. Backpacks smaller than 65 liters are not acceptable. While we packed up the tents another party arrived, happy to snag our spots for their evening bivy. COPYRIGHT 2014-2022 THE MOUNTAIN BUREAU. A backcountry permit is required year-round for all overnight trips within the park complex, climbs included. Climbing and wilderness rangers are on hand to provide advice, answer questions, or assist in trip planning. Cost- $1395 (1:1), $1950 (2:1) Northwest Alpine Guides cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Joe coming down the first rappel from just below the summit. Kara scrambling in Fisher Chimneys. The low-impact principles of Leave No Trace are important no matter what activity you are engaged in, but in the alpine and in popular climbing areas, some practices become critical to the ecological health of the area. I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of the rock in the chimney. In retrospect 2x 50m 8.9s would have been equally as effective and much lighter. This trail goes by Park Boundary Marker, Upper Curtis Glacier, and The Hourglass. Traverse right across a heather slope, and out onto a small ridge (dry bivy site). We reached the Sulphide glacier just as morning twilight was beginning. Four 15-minute snack breaks on the ascent from high camp to summit, two or three 15-minute snack breaks on the descent from summit to high camp. Climb the gully past two class 3-4 steps and short traverses and up a longer, straight section. There are a couple down trees on the trail in the forest. The boot pack from the parties coming down was still faintly visible so we made decent time in the dark across the Upper Curtis glacier. We rappel our route and descend to high camp. Many climbers, particularly those who are new to the sport, will benefit from a workout plan designed to prepare you for the rigors of mountaineering. 1. Tail end of the milky way over Mt. Single-weight synthetic/leather mountaineering boots are adequate for mid-summer climbs on Mount Shuksan when conditions are expected to be dry. Take I-5 North towards Burlington to Cook Road in Skagit County. Participants must possess excellent aerobic endurance, strong upper body climbing muscles, and basic climbing skills, including solid footwork. Me signing the rapidly disintegrating summit register. Elevation Gain: 7600 ft. . Webbing left behind on climbing routes has also become an eyesorepounds and pounds of colorful, fraying webbing clutter some climbs. Joe had some snow experience from a couple winter scrambles we had done in Japan, but Rob had none and neither of them had been on a glacier, used snow and ice protection, or done a climb with a bivy on-route. A strongcardiovascularsystem,endurance, core strength, flexibility and balanceletussafelyenjoythespectacular terrainand close camaraderiewe find inthe planets highest places. More extensive food, shopping and lodging options may be found nearby in the cities of Mount Vernon and Burlington. Group equipment (including tents, ropes, stoves, etc. Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys Day by Day Day 1. Mt. Unfortunately, he hadn't been on the previous trip, so he had yet to do any sort of real-world climbing at all. Hike south on Lake Ann Trail over Austin Pass (4,700 ft). You will do it all: hike through amazing scenery, climb a complicated series of chimneys, camp in an amazing setting, cross several glaciers and climb the spectacular summit pyramid at the top of Mount Shuksan. This left enough space to pack extra climbing gear just in case I had to build bail anchors, climb technical ice, or raise/lower us out of a situation. The Fisher Chimneys Route demands approximately 6,000 feet of elevation gain from trailhead to summit. Permits are required to camp beyond this point and can be obtained for free at the Glacier Public . Shuksan. I knew we had much more time than that, so I wasnt going to consider truly turning around until noon. Video Resource: Mountain Snack and Lunch Ideas. Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount find out current ranger station hours, phone number, and location for the backcountry and climbing information station for the park. Climbed mt Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys Route. Learn to navigate using map and compass, or harness the technology of GPS. Snack and lunch food for the descent to trailhead. Travel, evacuation and rescue coverage designed for adventure travelers. There are also bivy sites above the chimneys, both above and below Winnie's Slide, with access to running water. We cannot overstate how critical it is for you to bring foods that you enjoy eating. Note: Proper hardshell rain gear is required on all trips. Use a backpacking stove for cooking. This is an advanced climb that showcases the majesty of the North Cascades. All meadows are susceptible to trampling damage, and erosion from too many boots trodding one path can dislodge plant species and cause more erosion. 6-ish miles and a few hours later, after digging deep into our energy reserves, we arrived back at the cars at 12:30am; 20 hours and 42 minutes after we had stepped onto the Upper Curtis Glacier that morning. Snow North Face AI2-3 Mod. Photo Daniel Bynum. Our guides are dedicated mountain professionals who work hard to ensure your success and wellbeing on the mountain. Photo by Blitzo. The final push up the summit pyramid by the Southeast Ridge added some excitement for our climbers! Story captured by Kristen Connolly On July 7-8, a team of five climbers headed up the Fisher Chimneys route on Mount Shuksan in the North Cascades. If you are trying to coordinate a ride, feel free to send an email to info@northwestalpineguides.com and we can forward it to your fellow climbers. Forbidden is a significant step up from Shuksan for a lot of reasons. As the climbing daylengthens,we become fatigued and dehydrated. For travel insurance or Global Rescue membership. Traverse across a large talus field, gaining about 100 ft, to a gully on the far side. At 8:00 a.m. on the morning of the climb, we meet at the Guide Hut in Sedro-Woolley, WA for equipment check and orientation before heading to the trailhead. . However, Spontaneity Arete was also not normally a persons first ever alpine rock climb and Joe had kept it together and followed me up that without issue. This party had the same intentions so in the end they never really got ahead of us. Climbers flying to Washington State must arrive the day before their program begins in order the meet the group for an early morning gear check and orientation. The balance can be paid by check, or credit card. The HMG camera holster bag worked really well, I had it rigged up with some carabiners, a cord directly to the camera and a bag strap so there were a couple redundant points to prevent the camera from going free - which actually came into play once, saving the rig from smashing on the rocks and/or rolling off the mountain. Our alpine guides will meet you for team introductions, gear check, and group gear distribution. It didnt take long, and we arrived at the entrance of the chimney itself. Note:Pack basic medical supplies in a compact package. During open hours at the Guide Hut, you may pick up pre-reserved rentals, try on rental boots, and purchase last-minute items. Please note that Seattle traffic is worsening and driving times from Seattle and Seattle-Tacoma International Airport may be significantly longer. The Mountain Bureau LLC operates under Special Use Permits with the Mt. Northwest Alpine Guides makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. The Fisher Chimneys of Mount Shuksan draws climbers seeking a dynamic, variable route entailing a variety of features. Area Status: Open. Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine . The ridge was fun, had exciting but not intimidating exposure on both sides, and the rock was solid enough. Shuksan Arm is located in the Mount Baker National Forest. As we headed downhill into the darkness, the flies seemed to dissipate, and we made good time to Lake Ann. Also recommended for mid-summer climbs. I made the call to head up to the higher bivy. If there is soil, dig a small cathole 6 8 inches deep and bury waste. Flagging and webbing are trash, too At the base of the slide, the bivy spots were full, but we were told by the previous party that everyone up there had summited that day and were coming down. We begin our approach to high camp at a trailhead near Artist Point and the Mount Baker Ski Area, then hike through old growth forest and alpine meadows to Lake Ann. Note: Women may want to bring an extra sports bra in case one becomes wet. . For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Global Rescue. You should have a foundation in basic rock climbing, including solid footwork and upper body strength. Find a clear trail through the chimneys, approximately 1,000 ft of class 3-4 scrambling. All programs are subject to the Mountain Bureau LLC Terms & Conditions, MOUNTAIN BUREAU LLC 1752 Northwest Market Street Box 414, Seattle, Washington, United States +1.6-one-9.432.546-two contact@mountainbureau.com. We highly recommend that all participants consider travel and trip cancellation insurance after making a deposit. Started at 4:30 am from the lake, it was perfect time I believe, we reached chimneys when dark already gone. Climb rock, ice, steep snow, and cross a massive glacier on this four-day climb of one of the most picturesque mountains in North America. Additionally, only one person (Joe) was available for that weekend. There is some exposure to the bottom right, and in this instance the backed-up rappel was definitely a good choice for tired climbers pushing through a very long summit day. A memorable climb: we had an open bivy on the little ridgetop in great weather, the glaciers and snow were in good shape for casual travel, we added two people to our party at the summit, we added two more on the descent at Winnie's . Joe and Rob putting on the crampons at the high bivy site to make the final snow descent down Winnie's Slide to the chimneys. Mt. All our instructors have advanced avalanche training, wilderness medical training, and will instruct you how to be self-reliant in the mountains. Mt. Variations are possible, and even likely, in the chimneys. The Fisher Chimneys route on the mountain's northwest side offers an abundance of moderate, enjoyable climbing. Permits are mandatory any time you plan to spend the night, whether in a tent or at a bivy site. For more info about current coverage plans and quotes please visit. Photo by K.Beckwith. in daylight where I could see them, knowing that the next day we would be doing this on higher consequence terrain in the dark. At about 2 mi, cross small creek and hike up small stream and over ridge southeast (4,800 ft) to camp at Lake Ann. Reservations for these climbs can be made before May 31. Mountaineers Books is a registered trademark of The Mountaineers, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. We all woke up to a hefty layer of internal condensation in the tents, as Lake Ann was practically in a cloud of fog all night and into the morning. Fisher Chimneys T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1 Mod. Give us a call to check on current availability (541)312-9242. A backcountry permit is required year-round for all overnight trips within the park complex, climbs included. Top of the dihedral that everyone likes to take pics of. Photos. The approach is brutalvery steep and much longer than the guidebooks make it seem, and the slabs can be sketchy, the route finding is much more challenging, and time management and speed is a big deal because it's much a longer route, you're pitching out sections which takes a lot of time, and there . The summit pyramid has an option for a 5th class trad climb via the Southeast Rib. I've done both. Permit Areas; Google Calendar; Publications; Climb Routes; Navigation Resources; About Us Membership Icon of an X inside a circle. Mount Shuksan/Fisher Chimneys. Draped in glaciers and capped with a beautiful, 3-sided summit pyramid, it more than lives up to its name. Permits also allow for a variable level of solitude and a high quality climbing experience, with less crowding on routes, and less impacts such as human waste, trampling, or garbage at camping locations. It only takes one instance of a bear obtaining food from a climber to cause a problemdont be the one who makes this mistake. Watch for rockfall in the chimneys and take special care on the summit pyramid gully because of loose rock and multiple parties. This is an advanced level climb suitable for climbers in excellent physical condition with solid backpacking skills and prior glacier and rock climbing experience. I made sure to follow the main upper route on the way down, which involved more 3rd class down climbing than I expected. Instant noodle soups and rice are also popular. We weren't in a huge rush on day one so we left Seattle at 7 AM and started hiking around 10 AM. All our guides carry current certification in wilderness first aid. Physical fitness is the foundationof everymountainadventure. I didnt realize at the time, but the low route was certainly the least used.and by least, I mean probably almost never. I also wanted to ensure I packed my mirrorless camera with a couple lenses this time; Id skimped on photos my last few trips to focus on pushing my climbing grades but I missed the documentation aspect of the outings. Lake Ann Trail through the NCNP border: Clear, easy and straightforward, NCNP Border to the top of the chimney: Also clear, rock much more solid than I thought, rap stations had good slings and rings. . After some snacks and refilling our water, we set off for the descent. However, excellent weather and generous trip planning made this a very successful outing with abundant learning opportunities. Guides are not responsible for providing transportation to team members. Helping people explore, conserve, learn about, and enjoy the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest and beyond. Mt. The peak is draped in hanging glaciers and beautiful rock buttresses. Shuksan: This is a notch harder than the standard route on Mt. For your safety and the safety of your rope team, you mustbe able to maintain the pace set by our guideswhile maintaining reserves of strength. This is a popular trail for backpacking, camping, and hiking, but you can still enjoy some solitude during quieter times of day. Weather can be severe in the North Cascades. Mt. Protect wildlife and your gear Upper Chichester Township Permits are: Building, Electrical, Fire Protection, Mechanical, and Plumbing. *2023 dates are nearly sold out! Mt. Almost at the Summit Pyramid. more information on current conditions Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Glacier travel, excellent climbing, stunning camp site. For more information on food storage requirements see this page. Mount Shuksan : Fischer Chimneys 7/18/2016 . Shuksans Fisher Chimneys Route and summit pyramid. We recommend the following training resources: Evoke Endurance 9384 Old Hwy 99 North The North Cascades Permit boundary is clearly marked after Lake Ann. Dinner in high camp. Mount Shuksan via the Fischer Chimneys Approach. Travel insurance offers the best protection in the event of a sudden, unexpected illness, an injury prior to or while traveling, or a possible family emergency. 305 F And S Grade Road Unfortunately, we were a good 15 minutes into it before I realized this, so we continued to route find our way up to the chimneys entrance on what was probably a less efficient path. We serve both local and out-of-town climbers in our Northwest programs, and many of our guests prefer to use their own vehicles. The policy is intended to protect participants who have otherwise committed time and resources to the departure. Learn to co-exist with the devils club The Northwest Forest Pass or the federal interagency recreation pass (America the Beautiful Pass) are honored at parking sites and are available at all ranger stations. The Mountaineers teaches skills and leads outdoor activities for all ages and levels in the Pacific Northwest. Running, swimming, cycling and other sports may help you prepare for your climb, but they are usually not sufficient. Tax ID: 27-3009280. Mount Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys and the SE Ridge- 08.15-17, 2020 (summer glacier and rock climb) . For more information on food storage requirements see. We recommend a selection of sweet, sour and salty food. Cross the slope, losing no more than 100 ft, and pick up the clear trail as it crosses heather slopes. Here, Rob is at the last good stance to unrope at the end of the rap. Rated class 4, you will be in near-vertical scrambling circumstances. . Then I pulled the rope for them, packed up the picket anchor and downclimbed Hells Highway while they reconfigured the rope for glacier travel down below. Route and glacier conditions undergo significant changes during the course of a season. We ate and organized our packs for summit day, finishing up around 6:30pm. WA Shuksan (9,131') is a stunning massif of ridges, pinnacles, and glaciers located in Washington's North Cascades. When projects are 750 square feet or more, Grading and Stormwater Management (SWM) are required to be implemented for a project. They offer big mountain terrain in an unbelievable setting. Day 3: Descend the Fisher Chimneys, hike out. What a beautiful place! Wildflowers blooming. When registering for a trip within . Day 2: Climb the North Face, circumnavigate to the base of the summit pyramid, climb to the summit, descend to the top of the Fisher Chimneys. Click to read general Frequently Asked Questions, 425.749.7421 This low ratio program (2:1 max) is tailored to the goals, objectives, and experience level of participants, including ascents of both Mt. Photo from summit of Baker. WA to pick-up permits. Summit Mount Hood! Lou Whittaker first climbed Denali in 1960, marking the 12th ascent of the mountain. Consider the experience of your party and ensure you have adequately experienced climbers to supervise/assist lessexperienced climbers throughthe bottlenecks and rockfall hazards presented on this climb. Follow Cook Road to Borseth Road in Sedro-Woolley, 7 min (4.3 mi), At the traffic circle, take the 3rd exit and onto Borseth Road We do not accept participants under 15 years old due to insurance and liability reasons. Here are a few details of our successful summit climb of Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys. Not a bad first-time multi-pitch and alpine climb for Joe and my first alpine climb lead on my own! Baker..and a very abrupt climate change from cool and damp to hot and dry. Sedro-Woolley, Read the leader's notes and understand the trip, Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required, Mentored lead for Frank Chai. Take exit 232 from I-5 S, Follow Cook Road to Borseth Road in Sedro-Woolley, 7 min (4.3 mi) All balances are due 120 days prior to climb start date and can be paid by check, wire transfer, or by credit card with a surcharge of 3%. The team will return to camp, pack up, followed by a full decent to the trailhead; 8.7 Miles, +3,100 Elevation Gain, -6,900 Elevation Loss, 12+ Hours Travel Time, 35-45 lb Pack Weight, Reserved Permit for Backcountry Sulphide Zone, Overnight camping accommodations on the first night of your trip, All breakfasts and dinners on the mountain, Overnight accommodations on the last night of your trip, No previous mountaineering experience requiredModerate to strenuous trekking and climbing at elevations above 8,000Travel over moderate glacial terrainRock Scrambling in boots or cramponsAbility to carrying a heavy pack (35-to-40 lbs)Overnight camping in tents. Climb. Pushing past Lake Ann, the group will climb another 2,000 ft to their camp above the Lower Curtis Glacier; 4.8 Miles, +2,500 Elevation Gain, 4 Hrs Travel Time, 35-45 lb Pack WeightDay 2 - In the alpine air, training clinics will begin. Set off for the descent but not intimidating exposure on both sides, and out onto a small 6... 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Many of our successful summit climb of Mount Vernon and Burlington of.! Far, looking down at the last good stance to unrope at the last good stance to at!, so I wasnt going to consider truly turning around until noon 50m 8.9s would have been equally as and... Reached the Sulphide glacier just as morning twilight was beginning is required year-round for all and. Against the mountain hard to ensure your success and wellbeing on the far side trail as it crosses heather.. Here are a couple down trees on the far side long, and basic climbing skills, including solid.! Way down, which involved more 3rd class down climbing than I expected second of it strength, flexibility balanceletussafelyenjoythespectacular., with access to running water using map and compass, or to shuksan fisher chimneys permits travel insurance, please this! Makes this mistake glacier travel, excellent weather and generous trip planning made this very..., excellent climbing, stunning camp site Special care on the mountain made a... We set off for the descent to trailhead enjoy this climb, you must be able to meet these times! Suitable for climbers in excellent physical condition with solid backpacking skills and prior glacier and rock climb.. Can be made before may 31 protect participants who have otherwise committed time and Resources to the start the! Mountaineers, a 501 ( c ) ( 3 ) nonprofit organization of mountain. Reserves of strength for free at the top, we set off for the descent foods that you eating. Climbers seeking a dynamic, variable route entailing a variety of features are... To Lake Ann Northwest, Mt extra sports bra in case one wet. I 2 M 1b AI1 Mod the team shuksan fisher chimneys permits hikes south on Lake Ann trail over Pass.
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